![]() Enthusiasts tend to prefer screw in PCB-mounted stabilizers for their added stability but the most important thing is that they are compatible. Most keyboards require five stabilizers total, but some compact layouts require less.īe sure to note whether your PCB and case use stabilizers that mount directly to the PCB via clips or screws or snap onto the plate. Next, you’ll need a set of stabilizers to support the larger keys on the keyboard. The consideration here should be on whether you want your typing experience to be firm or flexible and what type of sound you’d like. Harder materials, like brass, are more rigid to type on and have a higher pitched sound profile. Switch plates come in a variety of different materials, from polycarbonate, to aluminum, brass,and copper, all the way to carbon fiber on the expensive end of the spectrum. You don’t want switches losing connection because they’re wobbling around in those hot-swap sockets! The mounting plate is what your mechanical switches snap into to hold them in place when plugged into the PCB. If you’re a new builder, you don’t need to get too hung up on the switch mounting plate. Note that some layouts, like that of the Happy Hacking Keyboard ( HHKB), look nice but use longer-than-average spacebars, which can limit your keycap choices. The trickiest layouts to find matching keycaps for are 65% and 96% however, dedicated keyboard websites like KBDFans offer a wider selection of keycap sets to match most layouts. Compact layouts often feature non-standard key sizes, making it more difficult or expensive to find matching keycaps. Your choice in layout also impacts your keycaps. Full-size/104/108-Key: The traditional keyboard layout, including all standard keys.Some lesser-used keys, such as Scroll Lock, are often relegated to a secondary layer or are removed entirely. 96%/96-Key: This layout takes most of the keys of a full-size board and pushes them together, removing empty space.80%/Tenkeyless/TKL: This is a standard keyboard layout that takes a full-size design and removes the number pad.75%: This layout takes the 65% form factor and adds the function row back above the number keys.Most keyboards of this layout also have a selection of navigation and editing buttons along the right-hand side. 65%: This is essentially a 60% keyboard with arrow keys.Secondary functions often live on a second layer accessible with key combinations. 60%: No arrow keys, function row, number pad, or navigation and editing cluster.This is a portable, yet difficult, layout to get used to for newcomers and relies heavily on secondary layers. Essentially just the main typing keys with no number keys. 40%: One of the smallest functional layouts available.Here’s a rundown of the most popular layouts. Do you want a small 60% keyboard or a full-size keyboard with a number pad? This will impact the functionality of your board but also what you should be shopping for. Take the time to consider the following, and you’ll ensure a much smoother build process. ![]() Things to Consider Before Buyingīefore purchasing any of the items above, it’s wise to go over some basic considerations to make sure everything goes smoothly, and you wind up with a keyboard you’re happy with. Note that keyboard kits usually require that you buy switches and keycaps separately. Increasingly, sites that focused on group buys and accessories have begun offering their own low-cost kits, like the TKC Portico, NovelKeys NK65 Entry Editionand Cannon Keys Bakeneko60 that are well worth considering when in-stock. Sites like Drop, Epomaker, YMDK and KBDFans are go-to sources for custom keyboard kits. Many new builders find all of these considerations overwhelming, which is why I always recommend purchasing a kit for your first build.ĭIY keyboard kits always include a matching PCB and case but often include extras like stabilizers, sound dampening foa and the carrying case. If all of this sounds like a bit much, you’re not alone. Switch lube (Krytox 205g0 is a safe bet).Permatex or other semi-thick dielectric grease.
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